Ashley Isham AW17 at London Fashion Week

Isham’s inspiration for Autumn Winter 17/18 came from the Japanese poet Matsuo Basho and his poem titled: When the Winter Chrysanthemums Go'.

 Evoking a Rhapsody of a Southern Winter’s Night of a distant world just beyond the horizon with its exotic long languorous enchanted evening that’s stark, yet gilded with a freshness that’s innocent and intricate by the romantic delicate hand embroideries.

 Delicate folds of georgette and satin backed crepe give dimension to gentle ruches in intricate blends of silk and jersey.

 Plaiting, pleating and hand beading that’s gathered high and twisted around the neck add depth to elegant folds.

 The luxurious collection with its ethereal lightness, tenderness and soft shapes pushes this line and its silhouettes into a new direction.
 This season welcomes bold hues including: sunset orange, regal amethyst,

 deep blue, olive khaki and opulent gold.

  Structured pieces that play with interesting techniques of twisting delicate wool in bold, vivid hues keeps the tailored pieces special, contemporary yet still glamorous.

For this special occasion, three limited edition bespoke vivid colours prints were created. Called Regal Azalea

 Starry Nights

and Winter Chrysanthemum, created in diaphanous georgette sumptuous velvet, structured scuba, super jersey and knit.

Every single garment is proudly made in England.

Tata Naka AW17 at London Fashion Week

 Using decoration and fashion as a vehicle of self-expression, the AW17 collection places the practice of tribal body paint into functional prints

punctuated with wild flower-inspired accessories and colourful tartans.

 Fully sequined draped scarves are also based on patterns pioneered by African waxed prints,

 while silk jacquard fabric is inspired by commemorative cloth from the late 1960s.

The palette also anchors itself within nature, with volcanic rock tones sitting comfortably alongside mineral pigments and flashes of colour.

Striped knitted looks also continue the trend, with various different ribs and African-inspired badges and emblems.

 Tata Naka has included footwear within the creative output, with animal-print pony skin slippers that anchor the collection as an ode to nature.

Haizhen Wang AW17 at London Fashion Week

 As a response to the growing immigration crises across the world, the collection embodies the role of the transient as they better prepare themselves for continual transfer.

Oversized patch pockets and raincoat materials reflect the need to defend from the elements.

Ideas of utility continue from SS17, with slogan badges reading ‘fragile’, ‘handle with care’, ‘priority’ and ‘air eligible’ to convey the different reasons behind human transit.

Such badges are the result of embroidery and Swarovski-sourced crystals.

Tied details also play a part with wrapped waistlines, the use of corsets and extra long belts, again reinforcing notions of luggage, travel and passage.

The collection’s palette makes for a bold but considered statement, with deep blues, red, black ochre and khaki – warm earth tones that provide impact without toeing garishness.

 Key fabrics include flat double wools for a contemporary finish and to ensure a soft, slouchy look throughout.

Discontinued lines and stripy wools are central to the collection, with devore techniques and tonal jacquards punctuating the use of quieter fabrics.

But despite Haizhen Wang’s new direction with an ode to the transient, the designer’s signature mix of raw edges and deconstruction is still very much apparent.

Bora Aksu AW17 at London Fashion Week

In a collection dedicated to Princess Sophia Duleep Singh, Bora Aksu creates garments to reflect the contrasts in her life.

Princess Sophia Duleep Singh was one of the most stalwart and prominent figures in the British Votes for Women movement, bold and fearless, she marched alongside Emmeline Pankhurst in protest outside parliament, refused to pay her taxes until women got the vote and threw herself in front of Prime Minister Asquith’s car. After the death of Emmeline Pankhurst in 1928, Sophia became president of the Suffragette Fellowship.

The lightest pastel shades of lilacs, blues and powder pinks come alive in forms of lace and silk tulles moving freely, representing Sophia’s soft and shy self, growing up in the blankets of an aristocratic life.

 In contract, thick black and white embroideries layered on plaid reflect her passionate, determined side.

Much of the detailing is inspired by the Suffragettes and their symbolic dress codes in the early 20th century,

with hand embroidered words in pale shades written on shirts, collars, cuffs and ribbons, sending softly spoken but strong messages.

 Specially developed embroideries and textures have been created in graphic lines and shapes, while maintaining a softness mimicking the perfect balance achieved in Sophia’s character.

The combination of soft feminine fabrics and structured shapes add both a sense of romantic yet bold silhouettes, whilst capes, jackets and coats in luxury woven fabrics