V&A opened the first international retrospective on iconic
fashion designer Mary Quant. She revolutionised fashion by creating a modern
look with mass production techniques making it more accessible for everyone.
Think Mary Quant and the mini skirt springs to mind. Paris couturier Andre
Courreges may have achieved international publicity for higher hemlines in
1964, but it was Quant who became recognised as inventor and ambassador for the
style.
The Jersey
dress became Quant’s signature sporty mini dress worn with matching beret,
tights and shoes for that total top to toe colour blocking. Previously used in underwear and for rugby or
football gear, Quant discovered a wool jersey that is heat bonded to acetate
backing and available in bright deep colours. Quant designed a range of styles
including the Footer dress 1967
The Pinafore dress. Quant’s designs were often based on practical schoolgirl
pinafores, adapting the look for grownups with hemlines gradually rising well
above the knee
Below Left - Snob pinafore dress in ginger (a colour Quant adored) worsted wool worn with
Marshmallow blouse and
Striped top pinafore (1963) in black &
ginger thick double jersey fabric.
The Wet Collection launched April 1963 featured relatively
new material PVC. Collaboration with Alligator Rainwear ensured the raincoats were
completely waterproof. Ginger coloured PVC raincoat used
a giant safety pin belt fastening way before the punk era.
Swinging capes (1967) for Alligator Rainwear in the then season’s
bold colours. Showerproof cotton canvas with slash pockets, central zip front,
metals studs and Quant’s signature colour contrast top stitching at the hem.
PVC Handbags in black, white and red were manufactured by
Bagcroft in 1966. Designs included chequers, spots and stripes as well as the
daisy trademark design.
Liberty. Quant established an informal partnership with Liberty’s of London from 1964 onwards, choosing prints intended for little girls. Her designs often incorporated details from traditional children’s clothing such as smocking and Peter pan collars
Below left- Smocked dress (1967) in Liberty printed cotton Tana lawn and Prude dress (1964) with Peter Pan collar.
Yum Yum (1975) a Japanese inspired Kimono style in Liberty Lantana printed cotton with quilting and Alice dress (1971): Liberty printed Varuna wool, both in the fashionable brown palette of the 70s.
Below left - Miss Muffet dress in Liberty
printed Varuna wool, One of Quant’s iconic designs and first to be adapted for
her range of Butterick dressmaking patterns.Ruffles were typical of Quant’s dresses of that year- overtly feminine, often using lightweight fabrics. Daddy’s girl dress (1964) in white with wide neck and wrist ruffles
The Maxi dress - Quant embraced the maxi length of the 70s. Boho halterneck maxi dresses in red or
monochrome stripes.
Q-Form Underwear – Partnering with manufacturer Weingarten
Brothers and their ‘Youthlines’ brand, Quant created the Q-form underwear range.
Using lycra for that comfortable and barely visible support this new type of underwear
complemented the silhouette of her dresses.
Roll-on girdle and panty girdle designed to flatten tummies
and create a streamlined silhouette.
The Exhibition runs until 16th Feb 2020 and is
sponsored by King’s Road with support from GRoW @ Annenberg.
Tickets are £12
