Although the literal
meaning is ‘the gathering of flowers’ Florilegium refers to the medieval botanical
books that recorded and accurately illustrated flowers.
Through her signature sculpted and elaborate tailoring,
Nielsen recreates petals, sepals, stamens and anthers in the form of ruffles,
peplums and large loose tie-necks.
Here, metallic silk is shaped around the entire body as a
giant all-encompassing peony rose.
Sleeves varied from the wide bulbous to slit like pods
keeping the arms held securely to the side.
The colour palette is delicate with light shades of vanilla,
ivory and blush pinks.
Her main inspiration was that of Kew Gardens. Not just the
plants but also the glass house architecture as she flips Kew’s Victorian Palm House
inside out with folds of leaves wrapping around a transparent glass like
bodice.
Nielsen was also inspired by computer graphics artist Makoto
Mutayama’s botanical blueprints where he sketches the inner cavity of a flower
and then creates in 3D digital.
Couture headwear continued the floral theme with milliner Emma
Yeo showcasing her SS13 ‘Lucidus Lilum’ collection. Each headpiece was inspired
by the petal of the Japanese Mountain Lily (Lilium Auratum) and was constructed
to emulate the lucidity and purity of botanical linear illustrations.
Fabrics used are translucent frosted plastics (to illustrate
shadows and highlights), taffeta and Yeo’s signature laser cut wood bonded with
soft blush pink and dusty grey silks.
For the finale, Charles Darwin’s theory of evolution is
played out in the avant-garde dip dye wedding dress. Large sculpted petals in a
gradient of grey are rib boned at the waist and followed by a trailing swathe
of finely layered ivory silk.
Emma Yeo’s headpiece is softened with large dip dyed grey
taffeta petals embellished with a light scattering of Swarovski crystals
mimicking dewdrops.
Most wearable pieces were:
The least wearable was the black book shaped dress but maybe
it was just to represent the closing chapter of Nielsen’s floral story.
For information on where to buy any of the collection pieces
email info@corrienielsen.com
Photographs by Christopher Dadey
I really like big volumes and big shapes, and the top part from the first look is really nice.
ReplyDeleteSuch great photos of the collection!
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