Roberta Einer AW19 at London Fashion Week

Roberta Einer pays homage to her grandmother and celebrates the inspiring life of the woman who taught her how to knit and embroider – and bring to life what have become the distinct design hallmarks of the Roberta Einer brand today

 Motifs and embroideries inspired by artwork from Soviet era postcards and posters combine with traditional Russian embroidery,

vintage scarves inspired prints for graphics on shirts and pyjamas

, flowers and a remake and update of classic items from her grandmother’s wardrobe to frame the collection,

Roberta Einer signatures; such as sequin-drenched disco trousers and embellished suits, as well as the smocking and denim stories from last season.

 Via an Estonian knitting group, Einer recreates the crochet flowers her grandmother taught her to make when she was young; and rekindles her collaboration with knitwear designer Alice Lee.

 Einer builds on this with puffa jackets that riff more on the side of a gardening jacket – for Einer’s grandmother was a keen gardener and once won a prize for the most beautiful garden given by Estonian president.

 It’s in this cherished memory that the collection is peppered with references: big retro crystal-shaped floral earrings – there are bold and bright snakes and geckos too;

rich, lush mossy greens for a show-stopping sequin and frayed silk bomber-puffa;

and the floral jacquard wrap-around buckled skirts, which also appear in tartan. The latter is a direct nod to her grandmother’s wardrobe, which Einer recalls had very many checks in it.

 The fabric also forms the basis of eveningwear, a new category from Einer this season, which sees the exploration of vintage Forties and Fifties shapes, dripping with sequins or wrapped up in tulle stars.

 Shoes by Angradema