Jayne Pierson AW19 at London Fashion Week

This season Jayne Pierson launches her A/W19 Collection ‘J’ayne’in collaboration with artist Neale Howells,as part of the British Fashion Council’s London Fashion Week, with special sponsorship from Skechers

 The show conceptualised the story of the contemporary woman who longs to reveal her most inner self, her dreams, her hopes, her aspirations and struggles. A woman who no longer wishes to conform to what is expected of her, and aims to redefine herself and her female form.

Her stream of consciousness is sublimated with her seemingly random set of doodles and scribbles (by Neale Howell) on her garments but these actually convey her most inner self. Her deepest thoughts and feelings are displayed and valued as contemporary art and she wears these garments as armour to empower and celebrate our individuality

Video of the show's finale:



J’ayne AW19 integrates hand-painted leathers with engineered hand-drawn digital prints, luxe woven painted fabrics, silks and draped leathers, with delicate hand embroidered tulle, mesh and lace, silk jersey and lace lingerie which are contrasted with structured architectural silhouettes.

The colour pallet is rainbow brights including; shaggy shearling in pink, yellow, orange, red, black and white, lamb nappas and a pop of primary red leathers.

This season Pierson also collaborates with leading sports brand, Skechers, who are taking sport shoes in an entirely new and innovative direction.

Photographer: Hanna Latif

Ong-Oaj Pairam Autumn/Winter 2014 Collection at London Fashion Week

For AW14, Ong continues his love of the polished 1950’s style, but this time he adds danger in to this carefully groomed look taking inspiration from his two favourite Disney anti-heroine’s:  Little Mermaid’s Ursula and 101 Dalmatians’ Cruella Deville.

In true Ursula style, bustier dresses graced the catwalk.  Full skirts flare as though Ursula is flexing her octopus tentacles muscles, whilst others skim her body.

Adorned by what appears to be scattered appliqué flowers but on closer inspection show they are Ursula’s octopus suckers meticulously hand stitched to achieve the suction cup dimension.

The more uptight Cruella makes an appearance with fluid tea length dresses, long sleeves and high necklines showing this villainess is prim if not proper.  However she does have a trick up her sleeve, or rather her sexy keyhole back.

Danger lurked amongst Ong’s prints which were inspired by the darker works of American modernist artist Charley Harper and the exploration of toxic animals and plants. In monochrome black and grey, simple images of crocodiles and leopards camouflage themselves amongst the chevron and stripe bands.

The striped lion fish created an attractive pattern as they spread out their needle like venomous dorsal fins, whilst on the sleeve the poison dart frog  joined together  to emulate the dogtooth pattern.  Adding a touch of purity to all the danger are the white lotus flower appliqués scattered randomly on the bottom of the long skirt.

Unassuming lily pads are transformed into the more imposing crocodile skin print.

Colour accents of toxic brights include acid yellows, sulphate blues and algae green.

Shoes and belts (both designed by Ong) compliment the outfits with their bright metallic snakeskin print leather.

For evening wear Ong chooses fluid silks. His deep sea blue gown billowed down the catwalk like rippling water.

The silks provided the perfect moving canvas for Ong’s evening scenery prints.  Waterfalls gush freely whilst the poison dart frogs hide amongst the rocks.

But all is not dangerous as amongst the leopard prints, poison dart frogs, stinging nettles and poison ivy is the pure white lotus flower.

Ong’s full collection can be seen on www.ong-oajpairam.com

For information on purchasing one of Ong’s made to measure creation email info@ong-oajpairam.com

YEASHIN Spring/Summer 2014 Collection

Photographer Simon Armstrong

The muse for this collection is a delicate, fresh faced girl, lively but refined.
The inspiration is an afternoon soiree in a garden filled with guests on a warm summer's day.

Bright green leaves adorn garments as though they’ve floated down from the trees. This collection had a childlike essence with ruffles and beads on pretty 60s style shift and baby doll dresses made of satin and chiffon panels in contrasting bright candy colours.

This summer afternoon soiree has  a fairytale twist.

 

Bernard Chandran Spring/Summer 2014 collection

All that Glitters is Not Gold, but it is definitely Bernard Chandran's SS14 collection.

Plus he added glistening silver ...

...and a rainbow of sparkling jewel hues in rich fabrics of lurex coated Royal Pahang silks and silk brocade.

Inspiration came from the imagination of a runaway princess escaping the confines of her safe palace to explore the urban jungle. Obviously still wearing her treasured tiara, after all a princess has standards!

This was a Galactic princess with high caped necklines revealing a plunging back;

 bejewelled harness dress straps,

and  a 3D circular motif of graphic tubular beading stacked upright like dominoes before they topple over.

This runaway princess mixes glitz and glamour to the urban jungle.

Ong-Oaj Pairam Spring/Summer 2014 collection

Drew Barrymore’s character Gertie in E.T. was the inspiration for the collection. Fusing Gertie’s childish curiosity, mischief and creativity with the housewife of the 1950s, Pairam’s collection is designed for the new modern woman who became bold and confident without losing her playful side.

 Silver silk satin tea dresses with a subtle hydrangea print were teamed with contrasting skinny belts in canary yellow or pillar box red.  Above image shows a sleeveless tea dress worn over a silk shirt. Tiny red dragonflies are hidden amongst the yellow print. 

 The styles ranged from the more conservative pleated skirt to the sports luxe style Pairam loves to include in his collections such as the baseball shirt dress.

The collection was a celebration of springtime with clusters of large flowers and butterfly appliqués in organza and leather blossoming on dresses and skirts.  Flowers and insects cluster on the hem of a shiny white patent leather skirts teamed with a silk georgette baseball shirt in an ethereal daisy print on the left and gingham silk georgette blouse on the right.
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The flowers and butterflies also landed on figure hugging sheath dresses in bright colours of daffodil yellow and poppy red.  Surrounding the waist of the red dress, the flowers have fluffy red pom poms centres and a scattering of shiny beads as though morning dew.

The opaque silk organza raglan sleeves of the yellow wool crepe sheath dress create a halter neck look.  The hem is studded with silk and suede embroidered flowers and insects with fluffy pom-pom bodies.

Prints were not all what they appeared.  On closer inspection, the soft lines creating the tartan like print on a wool crepe suit, waistcoat and long coat were actually a jumble of little strokes shooting out in random directions.

This composition of this pattern was clearer on the wide nautical bands in contrasting colours of red and blue. The pattern appeared as a print on silk organza skirts and shirts, but was also hand embroidered on worsted twill shorts and shift dresses. This high necked shift dress may look demure but has a large cheeky key hole back.

Epitomising the countryside in springtime is Gingham.  In shades of apple green and sky blue they were a breath of fresh air on dresses and blouses.

Pairam took the country style gingham to new heights as he hand stitched the pattern on to the leather sleeves of patent leather bomber jackets. Here shown as the embroidered body of a short leather bomber jacket with patent leather raglan sleeves, teamed with soft brown calfskin shorts.

The biker style is on trend and this time not only as jackets but also as a style for coats. Pairam goes one step further with this hand stitched embroidered apple green leather biker style dress. Gingham has never looked so edgy!

For the ethereal wood nymph look, both long evening gowns and short playsuits were of floaty silk chiffons in a daisy print or a pattern Pairam calls Hide and Seek.

The playsuit is in the Hide and Seek print.

Look closely and you’ll find insects such as the dragonfly 'hiding' amongst the daisies. With this carefree collection how could E.T. not want to stay?

www.ong-oajpairam.com