For AW15, Emilio de la Morena goes for high -octane glamour whilst taking his muse in to unlikelier terrain to explore questions of femininity and identity.
De La Morena was inspired by Picasso's Harlequins.
The Rhomboid pattern that characterises the Harlequin's costume appears in soft, criss crossing curves as patchwork and ornamentation.
Fabrics include soft stretch velvets, lace and jacquards alongside shimmery diaphanous jerseys and luxurious brocades,
Knee length and longer dresses feature corsetry and soft draping.
Body con silhouettes contrast with flared, full circle skirts.
Coats come in many lengths from minis, knee, to ankle length - But all are oversized.
The main coat is the plush velvet opera coat.
Colour palette is opulent with midnight blue, cerise and purple.
Metallics dominate in dull gold, gunmetal, bronze and steel.
A contrast between strength and structure on the one hand and a much softer femininity on the other recurs throughout the collection.
It is also something De La Moren sees in the work and process of photographer Polly Tootal who is nominated for the Hyeres Fashion and Photography Prize 2015. For AW15 she collaborated with a runway installation that places femininity and strength in the forefront of her bleak landscapes.
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