For SS18 Paula Knorr started with the real woman and her wardrobe.
To support and illustrate female identity is the core of Paula ́s designs. But in fashion, sometimes the superficial vision of a girl and her clothes attracts more attention than the real woman that wears the garment later on.
For SS18 Paula defined a method to reverse this and serve as a reminder of the actual purpose of fashion.
The woman should be in the foreground not the clothes she wears.
It ́s all about her body, her movement and her personal beauty.
Inspired by seeing more and more of her designs on real women in everyday life Paula wanted to expand her research of a new female identity. How do real women choose and wear their garments? How does this change their perception of themselves?
Moving from creating mostly free draped shapes Paula started to deconstruct and reconstruct everyday wardrobe staples to define a PAULA KNORR version for every piece.
Oversized Shirts are transformed into fitted dresses with ruffled drapes and liquid metallic sleeves.
Suits and coats are reworked in smooth jersey with soft drapes waving along their side seams.
Hoodies and Sweatshirts are completely reconstructed in stretch velvet with ruffled details.
Jeans are transformed into stretch lamé pants with dramatically draped legs.
Even Bra tops and Boxershorts are extended into fluid drapes and reworked in shiny silks.
Classic white and dark blue is mixed with strong red and blush pinks.
Traditional shirting is set in contrast to matt jerseys, stretch velvets, fluid metallics and washed lamés.
Paula reworked her signature cuts in off shoulder versions and transparent T-shirt dresses with free floating drapes.
For jewellery Paula collaborated with befriended designer duo RÄTHEL&WOLF. They developed pieces, inspired by classic jewellery shapes and female body movement.
To embrace her exploration of the female psyche, Paula Knorr has collaborated with Model agency LINDEN STAUB. The boutique agency challenges the fashion industry by creating a company where the mantra is 'empowering Women'. Together, Linden Staub and Paula Knorr, took time to cast a group of women, which help showcase Paula’s vision of strong female personality and diversity.
Photography by Chris Yates
London based personal shopping and image consultancy reporting on fashion and beauty
Tuesday, 31 October 2017
Rejina Pyo SS18 Collection at London Fashion Week
For her SS18 Collection, Rejina was inspired by Nicholas Nixon's Photographic series "Forty Years
of The Brown Sisters". The photographs explore the natural passing of time and the evolving
strength of the bond between the women as sisters.
The women appear relaxed and comfortable with themselves, their environment and each-other, an attitude of "non-chalance" Rejina set out to communicate with her collection. The relaxed femininity of the subjects is reflected in the collection’s fabrics and silhouettes.
A natural pallet is explored with cotton poplin whites, open weave gingham, washed denim, neutral browns, wools and originally designed silk prints.
Injections of bold unexpected colours such as taffy pink, sage green and red were drawn from the colour planes of painter Milton Avery, reflecting the women's individual personalities and their bravery, celebrating individuality and personal style.
Multiple accessories are included in this collection.
Sculpturally shaped wooden heels in white, honey and dark wood express Rejina’s passion for abstract sculpture, echoing the work of artists like Hepworth and Brancusi. The hard organic material of the heel is complimented with the body of the shoes created in suede and soft leather.
Jewellery has been designed in collaboration with London based designer Anissa Kermiche, the unique pieces artfully crafted to resemble the metallic mobiles of Calder, faces and abstract shapes in materials like gold and pearl.
Rejina continues to collaborate with Korean Eyewear brand Projekt Produkt, which for this season offers a distinctive collection of eyewear that cleverly synthesizes feminine retro silhouettes with modern unique details. The frames are cut with futuristic angles creating optical depth and are designed in a fresh summery palette balancing sophistication with a playful element of fun.
This season Rejina introduces handbags to the product mix. Five styles have been designed to complete and compliment the collection. A versatile cross body style as well as a structured tote and feminine bucket style bag have been imagined in mock crocodile, soft leather and suede in classic colours like black and brown.
Rejina continues to design for what women of all ages want to wear, maintaining her dedication to practicality, versatility and quality.
The women appear relaxed and comfortable with themselves, their environment and each-other, an attitude of "non-chalance" Rejina set out to communicate with her collection. The relaxed femininity of the subjects is reflected in the collection’s fabrics and silhouettes.
A natural pallet is explored with cotton poplin whites, open weave gingham, washed denim, neutral browns, wools and originally designed silk prints.
Injections of bold unexpected colours such as taffy pink, sage green and red were drawn from the colour planes of painter Milton Avery, reflecting the women's individual personalities and their bravery, celebrating individuality and personal style.
Multiple accessories are included in this collection.
Sculpturally shaped wooden heels in white, honey and dark wood express Rejina’s passion for abstract sculpture, echoing the work of artists like Hepworth and Brancusi. The hard organic material of the heel is complimented with the body of the shoes created in suede and soft leather.
Jewellery has been designed in collaboration with London based designer Anissa Kermiche, the unique pieces artfully crafted to resemble the metallic mobiles of Calder, faces and abstract shapes in materials like gold and pearl.
Rejina continues to collaborate with Korean Eyewear brand Projekt Produkt, which for this season offers a distinctive collection of eyewear that cleverly synthesizes feminine retro silhouettes with modern unique details. The frames are cut with futuristic angles creating optical depth and are designed in a fresh summery palette balancing sophistication with a playful element of fun.
This season Rejina introduces handbags to the product mix. Five styles have been designed to complete and compliment the collection. A versatile cross body style as well as a structured tote and feminine bucket style bag have been imagined in mock crocodile, soft leather and suede in classic colours like black and brown.
Rejina continues to design for what women of all ages want to wear, maintaining her dedication to practicality, versatility and quality.
Saturday, 28 October 2017
Paul Costelloe SS18 Collection at London Fashion Week
Paul Costelloe summarises his SS18 collection as: 'It's Paris, Washington and a touch of day dream allure.'
The collection brings a feminine look reminiscent of Jackie O., a touch of boulevard chic Avenue Victor-Hugo style and today's technological marvels produced by European mills- Emblem Weavers of Wexford, Sordevolo of Como and Dutel in the Loire Valley.
Fabrics used are silk jacquard, summer weight wool and appliqued cotton.
Colour palette ranges from soft ice cream shades to the more vibrant sherbet sorbets.
Prints include floral with wide horizontal watercolour brush effect stripes and botanical flora
plus checks and an exclusive chequer board designed by Paul's son, William.
Long statement dresses are in 100% pure Irish linen with pleated panel yolks and tulle underskirts.
Latex adds a naughty element to an otherwise sweet collection.
.
Oversized totes and mini Jessica bags are inspired by the structural details of the collection.
Architectural statement jewellery is by Sarah Angold.
Sock boots by Ego
The collection brings a feminine look reminiscent of Jackie O., a touch of boulevard chic Avenue Victor-Hugo style and today's technological marvels produced by European mills- Emblem Weavers of Wexford, Sordevolo of Como and Dutel in the Loire Valley.
Fabrics used are silk jacquard, summer weight wool and appliqued cotton.
Colour palette ranges from soft ice cream shades to the more vibrant sherbet sorbets.
Prints include floral with wide horizontal watercolour brush effect stripes and botanical flora
plus checks and an exclusive chequer board designed by Paul's son, William.
Latex adds a naughty element to an otherwise sweet collection.
.
Oversized totes and mini Jessica bags are inspired by the structural details of the collection.
Architectural statement jewellery is by Sarah Angold.
Sock boots by Ego