Wednesday 28 April 2010

FROM RUSSIA WITH LUBLU



Lublu (meaning “I love” in Russian) showcased its Autumn/Winter 2010 collection in London at the Metropolitan hotel. The designer and owner of the label, Kira Plastinina, talked passionately about her inspirations behind the designs.
One inspiration was taken from Goethe’s “Faust” a tale of good and bad. She translates this will use of colour and materials: For light and innocence, soft nude beige is used and silks, jersey, chiffon and mohair for the materials. For dark and wickedness, greys and blacks in soft leather, rubber and tulle.
Kira was also inspired by the fashion of the 1990’s – the power dressing, how crosses were used as jewellery and how models were revered. Here she uses the style to translate: with shape-skimming dresses and skirts embellished with layered drapery, swaging, ruffles and beads; jackets with angular origami-style shoulders, and asymmetrical tops. Large crosses are used for necklaces and to adorn the crystal encrusted wide belts
Lublu is a luxury brand for the younger woman (17-30yrs). Because of the use of black, leather, the crosses and rubber this latest collection has a dark gothic feel to it, but the ruffles, silk chiffon roses and beaded designs add a touch of light femininity.
The jackets and waistcoats are fitted and flare out to hip length. Fabrics used are leather or rubber. The rubber gives a smooth line whilst the beaded pattern just off one shoulder at the back adds decoration to an otherwise plain silhouette. Kira explains the pattern is an updated mix of her angel wings design used in her summer collection and the cross used as jewellery in this season. The leather jackets are unadorned and collarless making a great basic to complement the more ostentatious skirts and dresses in the collection. However these jackets would also look great on the older woman or the woman who prefers simple classic lines – matched with a plain pencil skirt or trousers they will bring just the right amount of edge to bring her out of her comfort zone.
The dresses and skirts are short, some are layered, some covered with silk chiffon roses, others have large leather or rubber ruffles cascading down one side and a few are made of transparent mesh adorned with the beaded design.
Majority of the collection is evening wear but there are a few fun t shirts and jumpers. The t shirts are distressed with holes and have the angel wing design or are embellished with the beaded pattern. Jumpers are large, either pale grey with the angel wing designs or black mohair with a scattering of silk chiffon roses.

Although only launched in 2008, Lublu is well established in Russia, Eastern Europe and Los Angeles. And is now hoping to win over the UK – As Harrods is already stocking their Summer collection and discussing orders for their A/W , I think they are on the right track.
Not bad for an upcoming designer with a new label, and oh did I mention that Kira is only 17!!

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