Tuesday, 26 February 2019

Amy Thomson AW19

Titled 'Loved and Lost' Amy Thomson's AW19 collection is inspired by romance and relationships with objects and people at different stages of your life taking a child's perspective.

Colour palette is romantic red, precious pink, powerful purple and teasing turquoise. Bows and ties throughout the collection add pops of deeper colour to the looks.

Hand rendered  illustrative motifs are built up of pen,paint and glitter using text and slogans like 'crushin on you', 'teenage love shrine.' and 'Slumber Party'

Faux fur coats, jackets, wraps and gilets  complement Amy's exaggerated full frilled silk dresses.

A shimmering foiled leather coat is adorned with soft faux fur and hand illustrated embroidery

Collaboration with Katie Hammnet of Sassy Freak jewellery featurs clip on dangly earrings of mobile phones in heart lockets and photo frames

Plus the over the top glitzys glam-ma glasses draped with a pearl chain so glam-ma doesn't loose them.

Photography by Georgie Fen
Location - Whinnie Williams' Poodle and Blonde location house in Margate.

Matty Bovan AW19 at London Fashion Week

Inspired by by folklore and myth

From the Liberty Fabric archives, Matty selected their Tana Lawn pattern, scaling up the tiny graphics to find the wizardry in the colour blend, while turning the collection into an exploration of Englishness.

Video of the show's finale:

The ballgowns of Spring/Summer had mutated into polymorphous shapes, cut against the leg, into the hip, bolstered with tulle and foam padding.

 His significant print this season is the unmistakably English dragon.

 A Liberty Fabric print blouse, in four different colourways, with shoulder frilling and an Edwardian neckline works as a jacket too.

 Headwear by Stephen Jones for COACH X Matty Bovan, featuring Coach Signature fabric,

Katie Hillier has fashioned collectable outsized keyrings for the collection, as well as hair scrunchies and bows in Liberty Fabric prints

Gina for COACH x Matty Bovan footwear also features Coach Signature fabric,

 as well as GINA for Matty Bovan footwear in clumpy sludge fake snakeskin, cappuccino-coloured stack lace-ups, and the fabric of a thigh boot looking something like a luxurious diesel slick.

Bold knit prints with one print taken from the impression of a grit-bin found in Manchester.

A local wood-turner has made jewellery from chair spindles and bracelets to be worn as armlets. The craft continues into talismans to be held by the models, shaped by his mother.

Monday, 25 February 2019

16Arlington AW19 at London Fashion Week

With their Italian heritage and London fashion education, Marco Capaldo and Kikka Cavenati’s vision at 16Arlington is a cocktail of lavish glamour and urban cool.

 For this collection, their debut at LFW, 16Arlington started their journey looking at the work of mid-century German-American pop artist Richard Lindner. His paintings offered a rich source of visual inspiration - the pop bright colours are brought to life with Duchess satins, Swarovski crystals and rich embellishments. His painting titled 'West 48th Street' sparkles on a sequin evening gown.

Animal prints and exaggerated silhouettes feature heavily in this collection.

A tiger stripe suit pays homage to the coat worn in Linder's 'Voyeur' lithograph right down to its pink lapel

The bustier body con dress was inspired by Richard's silkscreen titled 'Corsage'

 Lindner’s work explored sexual symbolism and the definitions of gender roles. 16Arlington’s fashion blurs the lines of masculinity and femininity – a faux python boot leg trouser teamed with shearling striped coat and satin long-lapelled shirt is a strong look for all sexes.

 Likewise, a nipple printed leather trench coat makes an erotic-humoured classic for all.

 Lindner’s friend and contemporary Marlene Dietrich is a long-time dream muse of Capaldo and Cavenati.

16Arlington make no apology for their love of performers, actors, exotic creatures of the night and pop legends. Everyone from Marlene to Mary J Blige and David Bowie is woven into the fabric and spirit of this collection.

 Shoes in collaboration with Gina

Millinery: Noel Stewart

i-am-chen AW19 at London Fashion Week

Inspired by the american abstract painter Agnes Martin, this season Chen has focused on classic elements such as grid, line and point.

The collection shares Martin's geometric repetition

her minimalist touch through the making of the garments in one piece

and also her abstract expression with the use of an explosion of vivid colour.

Sunday, 24 February 2019

Steve O Smith AW19 at London Fashion Week

SOS has reimagined the pantomime for the era of farce that we have now found ourselves in.

Surrounded by the traditional setting of a country house, signature tailoring is amplified by elements of pin-stripe patchwork, featured on the Revolutionary and the Politician.

Video of presentation

Padding, exaggerated silhouettes, corsetry and oversized millinery as seen on the Lady and the Vamp are designed to be noticed even from the very back row of the theatre.

 The Banker, dressed to impress in a full PVC look plots their world domination in the Parlour,

 as the Dame holds court in the sitting room.

 Hand woven Banarasi silks, as seen on the Lady and the Merchant are reversed to show the striking colour and texture of their loose threads.

Video of presentation

The Patchwork technique continues in leather on the Fox,

contrasted by the sharply tailored Hunter in hot pursuit around the garden.

And in the centre of them all, the Guard and the Flag idly await their orders.

Hats by Leo Carlton

Photography Richard Dowker


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