It’s hard to believe that Royal Ascot is 300 years old! Right
from the start in 1711, when Queen Anne declared the area would be ideal for
horseracing, it has attracted the fashionistas of society. And to celebrate the
Big 300, Vivienne Westwood and Stephen Jones have designed three outfits
collectively named the Three Graces. Each ensemble represents a different century- 19th, 20th
and 21st.
The first gown is in the style of the Victorian era and made
from a select silk taffeta named Quality Viola. The word taffeta is Persian in
origin and means ‘twisted woven’ and is a luxurious fabric often used for ball
gowns. The fabric has 100 thread counts per square centimetre and is hand dyed
with 300 different colours producing an overall grey ombre shading from soft
yellow, gold to violet, mauve and black.
Honouring the sewing process of the late 1800s the machine used to
create the gown is more than 150 years old and each thread had to be introduced
individually by hand in to the machine.
Stephen Jones bonnet is made with the same taffeta silk as
the dress and is reminiscent of the prim ‘poke’ style worn in the Victorian
times (called poke as the ladies could poke their hair inside the hat). But
rather than hide the face with the typical forward projecting rim, Jones’ rim
soars upwards to frame and reveal the face. The bow tied around the neck is flamboyantly
large instead of dainty and demure, and complements Westwood’s gown. The hat’s style
also is reminiscent of the jockey’s cap.
The second gown nods to the Edwardian ‘Belle Epoque’ period
and was inspired by the black and white Cecil Beaton dress worn by Audrey
Hepburn in the 1964 My Fair Lady movie . In the film Eliza Doolittle attended
Royal Ascot at the time of ‘Black Ascot’ in 1910 when the ladies wore large
black picture hats out of respect for the death of King Edward VII. The
Edwardians loved wearing white, cream or ecru as it was a symbol of wealth- it
meant that you could afford plenty of maids to clean your soiled hems made
dirty from a leisurely stroll on the lawn.
Wider hats were fashionable and became a statement of
extravagance with their over the top trimmings of large cabbage roses or
gerberas, lace, bunches of berries, rosettes and ribbon streamers. And Stephen
Jones’ large fascinator with its ears of wheat, bows, plumes and flowers is in
keeping with the era and also pays homage to Cecil Beaton’s hat worn by Hepburn
in My Fair Lady.
The third creation brings us in to 21st Century glamour.
This lipstick red demi-couture piece is from Westwood’s Gold Label
collection. It is hand sewn with red
embroidery on black silk with an all over flower theme. Sculptural finishes are
seen around the neckline and shoulders.
The hat is of hi-tech lacquered straw in the same deep red
as the dress. Fashioned in Jones’ signature miniature top hat style and softened
with veil netting.
Throughout the fashion stakes, you can see the style may have changed but the flamboyant look always remains stable.
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