Mary Quant Retrospective at V&A Museum

V&A opened the first international retrospective on iconic fashion designer Mary Quant. She revolutionised fashion by creating a modern look with mass production techniques making it more accessible for everyone.

Think Mary Quant and the mini skirt springs to mind. Paris couturier Andre Courreges may have achieved international publicity for higher hemlines in 1964, but it was Quant who became recognised as inventor and ambassador for the style.

The Jersey dress became Quant’s signature sporty mini dress worn with matching beret, tights and shoes for that total top to toe colour blocking.  Previously used in underwear and for rugby or football gear, Quant discovered a wool jersey that is heat bonded to acetate backing and available in bright deep colours. Quant designed a range of styles including the Footer dress 1967 

The Pinafore dress.  Quant’s designs were often based on practical schoolgirl pinafores, adapting the look for grownups with hemlines gradually rising well above the knee
Below Left - Snob pinafore dress in ginger (a colour Quant adored) worsted wool worn with Marshmallow blouse and Striped top pinafore (1963) in black & ginger thick double jersey fabric. 

The Wet Collection launched April 1963 featured relatively new material PVC. Collaboration with Alligator Rainwear ensured the raincoats were completely waterproof. Ginger coloured PVC raincoat  used a giant safety pin belt fastening way before the punk era.

Swinging capes (1967) for Alligator Rainwear in the then season’s bold colours. Showerproof cotton canvas with slash pockets, central zip front, metals studs and Quant’s signature colour contrast top stitching at the hem.

PVC Handbags in black, white and red were manufactured by Bagcroft in 1966. Designs included chequers, spots and stripes as well as the daisy trademark design.

Liberty. Quant established an informal partnership with Liberty’s of London from 1964 onwards, choosing prints intended for little girls. Her designs often incorporated details from traditional children’s clothing such as smocking and Peter pan collars

Below left- Smocked dress (1967) in Liberty printed cotton Tana lawn and Prude dress (1964) with Peter Pan collar.

 Yum Yum (1975) a Japanese inspired Kimono style in Liberty Lantana printed cotton with quilting and Alice dress (1971): Liberty printed Varuna wool, both in the fashionable brown palette of the 70s.

Below left - Miss Muffet dress in Liberty printed Varuna wool, One of Quant’s iconic designs and first to be adapted for her range of Butterick dressmaking patterns.Ruffles were typical of Quant’s dresses of that year- overtly feminine, often using lightweight fabrics. Daddy’s girl dress (1964) in white with wide neck and wrist ruffles

The Maxi dress - Quant embraced the maxi length of the 70s. Boho halterneck maxi dresses in red or monochrome stripes.

Q-Form Underwear – Partnering with manufacturer Weingarten Brothers and their ‘Youthlines’ brand, Quant created the Q-form underwear range. Using lycra for that comfortable and barely visible support this new type of underwear complemented the silhouette of her dresses.

Roll-on girdle and panty girdle designed to flatten tummies and create a streamlined silhouette. 

The Exhibition runs until 16^th Feb 2020 and is sponsored by King’s Road with support from GRoW @ Annenberg.

Tickets are £12