Thursday, 11 March 2010
DOII PARIS AUTUMN/WINTER 2010 COLLECTION
This was Korean designer Doii Lee’s first catwalk show at London Fashion Week and it didn’t let her down.
The collection titled “Walk in the Forest” was inspired by her favourite Russian fairytale “Baba Yaga”.In this fairytale a wicked stepmother sends her lovely step daughter in to the forest to visit her aunt, Baba Yaga, the witch.
In Doii’s walk in the forest story, she passes through an intoxicating rose maze. Copper haired models wore layered chiffon dresses and glittering sequined dresses - all in the designer’s exclusive illustrated print of large pinkish red roses. Red patent high heeled shoes with patterned fabric tied around the ankles in large bows matched the vividness of the designs. White faux fur trims and linings added softness to some of the stiffer sequined fabrics. The first outfit on the catwalk immediately caught our attention – long straight chiffon dress with a kick flare hem, draped with a long trailing shawl covered in the sequined rose pattern and lined with white faux fur.
“A dove guides her along the right path” – the digital prints now were of flying white doves on orange/peach light chiffon or heavily sequined fabric.
“A garden full of glorious sunny memories” Main colour palette was cream with a touch of blue, green and pink. The print of potted plants was hazy as if faded by the sun. Here we saw a loose fitting sequined egg-shaped coat with a sexy kick at the bottom and cuff. The contrasting print on the collar of polka dots added to the glamour.
The story and walk becomes darker, she is in turmoil –mid greys or rich browns are added to the mix. The print is busier and again vivid. The patent shoes colour changes from carefree red to serious black, but still with the patterned fabric tied around the ankle.
“Her heart sank”- black and grey dominate and the designer’s prints are of lace and netting. Black lace features on the sequined evening dresses, black fur on the coats.
“But she knew she was a protected one” – the colours here were pale gold and black. Here we saw a sequined gold and black patterned trench coat with plain light grey lapels, tie belt and pockets. A short sequined gold and black patterned dress was given the 20’s vintage look with a drop waist and a wide band of scalloped gold lace around the hem.
“My skeleton friend is always with me” – again black and grey dominated for the new print of lace skulls.
“Then the goat queen of the forest is on her side” – honey blonde models came out wearing prints of the goat queen in creams, white, soft browns with a touch of light blue. A padded egg-shaped coat, plain but for the print and teamed with silver grey fur leg warmers. Other outfits lined or trimmed with white faux fur gave a Cossack appearance.
“Divine roses blossom along the dark path of the forest “- Proving anything can look glamorous, a duffle style coat was given the luxury make over with a sequined print of roses along the path of the green forest, lining and trims of light grey faux fur and with the hem longer at the back.
Chiffon dresses were long and short, some with a few of the signature sequins, some decorated with small hanging hearts down the back and some with their hems longer at the back. All were colourful and patterned.
Dresses in heavier fabrics were completely embellished in sequins making Doii’s print designs even more dazzling.
My favourites were the coats: all statement pieces proving you don’t have to wait to take your coat off before making an entrance.
Doii states that the lady who wears Doii Paris becomes a diva. The last model came out in a black sequined coat and large hat with fringes so long they reached her shoulders. Not representing the end of the story but in true diva style, this piece wanted to take centre stage.
Photographs were taken by Christopher Dadey. For more of his work see www.christopherdadey.com