Tuesday, 10 July 2018

RANI ZAKHEM AW18 at Paris Haute Couture Fashion Week

'A Warrior Goddess in her Crystal Armour' Rani Zakhem Couture AWr 2018-2019 collection is a vibrant and sparkling tribute to the combating and combative woman, Amazone of all jungles and terribly ”Glamazonian”

All elements of nature are invoked to protect this dangerous chameleon emerging from the foliage or surrounded by all the animals of Creation.

 The camouflage spirit dominates the graphic scene of this Couture collection. Shades of khaki on a silk crepe sablé,  “V” neck spencer with structured shoulders, and sharp cigarette pants.

Rani Zakhem redesigns the camouflage print as an embossed sumptuous ornament embroidered in new tonalities: glittering emerald, bronze and gold on a pencil skirt; red, black and gold crystals in clusters on an incendiary sheath

 or  in a single element, gold, iridescent crystal and silver, wrapping the waist of a white silk crepe cocktail dress vertiginously slit on the bias.

 Another recurring motif is the oversized military insignia, which adorn the sleeves of a jacket or coat as giant gold glittering embroidered chevrons.

 Main colour palette is pure white, a value rather than a color, considered fragile but luminous, bold, a symbol of renewal and resilience.

In Rani Zakhem’s imaginary jungle "glamazone" is also the delicate guardian of a paradise that she will not let falter. Like a nymph, it is marked with the seal of the forests translated, here in diaphanous sheaths where intertwined cascades of lianas drawn by the designer and hand embroidered with sequins and white, bronze, silver and gold braided threads.

 On the skirt of a tulle dress with crinoline the  imaginary jungle unfolds, a fairy where fauna and flora blend in a palette of pale pink, gold and copper,

 In this celebration of nature there is also a spectacular crinoline creation, fluttering black tulle, with scattering of crystals, evoking a spider in its precious cobweb.

Dragonflies flutter over pastel hues of aquatic vegetation on an exquisite revealing ballgown . as well as an adorable sheath in tulle cascades, nuanced from orange to pink, like a poisonous flower or panoply of native warriors. Subtle references from Yves Saint Laurent, Marc Bohan and Azzedine Alaïa punctuate the couture vocabulary of Rani Zakhem, between a Saharienne detail, a draped moulage, the powerful minimalism of a white dres

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