Monday, 13 February 2017

Belstaff Women's AW17 Presentation 'Jolly Roger'

For Autumn/Winter 17, Menswear and Womenswear are unified in a theme rich with Belstaff’s military heritage: the “Jolly Roger” naval and submariner inspired collection is both tribute and testament to the incredible clothing worn by the British Royal Navy throughout WWII.
The collection then interprets the harsh realities of life at sea through colour, fabric diversity and an array of special vintage wax treatments for a worn-in look.

The parka is a key piece for the season and arrives in a variety of styles , The emphasis centres on an incredibly protective foul-weather parka which is a contemporary reproduction of a jacket made by Belstaff in 1960. Made from down-filled ballistic nylon (originally developed as a material for flak jackets for WWII airmen) exclusive to Belstaff and with a down-filled hood liner, it is supremely functional and constructed to stylishly withstand the very worst of the elements.

 Traditional pea coat details such as the slash pockets and wide lapels are present while in the women’s versions, subtle leather details such as latches and buttons have been applied for a contemporary twist. An Officer’s coat with dulled silver naval buttons appears for women,

 In women’s leather, there are two very notable additions showcasing Belstaff’s fabric innovation: the first is an incredibly lightweight down-filled leather blouson and the second is a machine-washable nappa leather jacket. Crackled vinyl-effect leather is a stylistic innovation in women’s.

Shearling pieces, many of which are opulently reversible, form a key part of both men’s and women’s outerwear this season due to their incredible warmth and luxurious tactility.

Other leather jackets feature emblems on their backs, ie the Jolly Roger in women’s

 Tattoos have always been a naval tradition, not just in the British Royal Navy but also in the US Navy. Belstaff have incorporated this heritage of symbolism in two distinct styles. The first is a more edgy reproduction of classic naval tattoos such as the swallow (which signifies a sailor accomplishing 5000 nautical miles out at sea) and the anchor. Placed randomly across a variety of garments, they have been designed in the rich and vibrant style of “Sailor Jerry”, a prolific tattoo artist who etched his trade in the red light district of Honolulu during WWII. These motifs have also been extrapolated to form a more feminine lace-like graphic resembling body art.

 Lastly, the iconic Jolly Roger flag, which was raised by victorious submarines on their return to harbour has also been applied to elements of the collection. Tattoo emblems and the Jolly Roger appear across men’s and women’s on leather, wax, knitwear, sweats, tees and shirting.

 Sharing the same colour palette across menswear and womenswear, this season focuses on industrial tones of red, brown, blue and military green, particularly throughout Belstaff’s core pieces. Charcoal grey, black and true navy form a base from which emerge brighter hues such as spruce teal, sanderling, cardinal red and burnished gold.

In leather and waxed cotton, colours have been given an aged effect for a unique patina. Much brighter and more vibrant colours are found in the naval tattoo motifs which add a personalised touch. For women, two new bag shapes appear: a small cross-body and larger hobo with adjustable strap, both with naval roping details and large hooks.

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