Tuesday, 28 February 2017

Haizhen Wang AW17 at London Fashion Week

 As a response to the growing immigration crises across the world, the collection embodies the role of the transient as they better prepare themselves for continual transfer.

Oversized patch pockets and raincoat materials reflect the need to defend from the elements.

Ideas of utility continue from SS17, with slogan badges reading ‘fragile’, ‘handle with care’, ‘priority’ and ‘air eligible’ to convey the different reasons behind human transit.

Such badges are the result of embroidery and Swarovski-sourced crystals.

Tied details also play a part with wrapped waistlines, the use of corsets and extra long belts, again reinforcing notions of luggage, travel and passage.

The collection’s palette makes for a bold but considered statement, with deep blues, red, black ochre and khaki – warm earth tones that provide impact without toeing garishness.

 Key fabrics include flat double wools for a contemporary finish and to ensure a soft, slouchy look throughout.

Discontinued lines and stripy wools are central to the collection, with devore techniques and tonal jacquards punctuating the use of quieter fabrics.

But despite Haizhen Wang’s new direction with an ode to the transient, the designer’s signature mix of raw edges and deconstruction is still very much apparent.

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